Saturday, March 6, 2010

Adventures in Samana!

Hi all,

So sorry for the posting delay. I guess in the future I will just eliminate this initial apology and we can all start living the truth, which is that I post once every few weeks, apparently. My excuse this time is that I have been busy having fun with gringo visitors! The first of which was my (really awesome) boyfriend, Bill.

After 2 flight cancellations and 5 days passed, he finally made it to Cabarete! And thus began our adventure...we had been planning to travel to the Samana peninsula, about 3.5-4 hours east of Cabarete, to what is famed to be pretty much the most beautiful part of the D.R., and which is famous for the humpback whales that hang out there during the month of February. After we successfully rented a car capable of making the drive (there are potholes like you've never seen before in this country) we set off on a rainy Thursday. While stopping at beaches along the way as planned wasn't so fun in the wind and rain, the drive was still breathtakingly beautiful. Much of it is right along the coast, next to nearly unpopulated beaches and through lots of rolling farmland and fields full of palm trees. It's also really fun to make this drive because you pass through so many small typical Dominican towns on the way. And you can buy really good freshly harvested roasted almonds along the side of the road, which are addicting.

After passing through the town of Samana, chowing on some empanadas and avoiding aggressive whale-watch promoters in the process, we hit up a fruit stand along the side of the road where we purchased what was probably the best pineapple I've ever tasted, grabbed some Presidentes grandes, and arrived at our hotel Ballenas Escondidas "Hidden Whales". After reading several enticing Trip Advisor reviews, along with the words "beautiful private beach" and "infinity pool", we had chosen Ballenas...while the private beach was indeed gorgeous - probably the most gorgeous I've ever experienced - (we spent the evening there, swimming and watching whales breach from the shore) our accommodations were a bit whack. i.e. we had about 2 out of 4 legitimate walls, no separate bathroom, and were being grossly overcharged. After some unpleasant words were exchanged with the French (had to mention it) owner of the hotel - we will not repeat what we called her - we left the next morning in search of a new place to stay.

We decided to press on to Las Galeras, which is the town furthest out on the tip of the peninsula. A small fishing town, it's super quiet, laid back, and beautiful. I'm so glad we ended up coming here! We easily found a great little hotel (with an incredibly nice owner...Italian), and almost just as easily walked onto the grounds of the all inclusive resort down the beach where we proceeded to play croquet and ping-pong to our hearts' delight.

The next day we went on a horseback riding trip, which was UNREAL. Not only because I could bask in my love of horses big time, and see Bill riding one ("I think I want to become a cowboy..." came about 5 minutes into the ride), but because we went to the most incredible beach. After riding for about half an hour, we arrived at Playa Madama, only accessible from the riding/hiking path we took, or by boat. It was incredibly beautiful, and the weather had finally cleared. After a swim we got a little tutorial on coconuts (the milk is NOT inside them, you have to make that...and you pretty much need a machete to harvest one yourself), and headed up a path to see the amazing view from the cliff overlooking the beach/inlet. Then we headed toward a cave, outside of which our guide dug for Taino pottery shards, which she claims to have found there before...she showed us some she had previously found, which did seem legit, and were apparently a minimum of 500 years old. The cave was really big, and we saw a bat! And also one of the scariest looking arachnids I've ever laid eyes on, which I'm still trying to wipe from my memory.

As we headed back to Cabarete, we were both so glad that our first hotel hadn't worked out (understatement) and that we ended up exploring Las Galeras; it was soo beautiful and the town was a nice quiet change from Cabarete's noise and road pollution. There were amazing views that we could now take in with clear skies and sun on the drive home, and we made it back to Cabarete just in time to to meet my aunt and uncle for a tasty dinner (not to mention the bikini contest on the beach, which both Bill and my uncle Hugh seemed to enjoy a bit too much). I'll just end the post here so we can avoid the next day's fiasco with our budget car rental place.

More soon!!

Un abrazo grande,

Laura

Friday, February 12, 2010

Motos in the hills

The past week here has been really great. Some really cool experiences last weekend, and am predictably a little late in reporting on it but 'better late....'etc.

After a beautiful morning run last Saturday (weekend mornings are essentially the only time when it's possible to run on the main road - aka the only road, aka the paved road - without feeling like you instantaneously contract some type of lung cancer). The air pollution is pretty much off the charts here, as all motos (small motorcycles - the primary form of transportation here) seem to have major exhaust problems that go unfixed, so it's really a treat to run on the road with minimal traffic. Since there are no sidewalks here it's also a treat to run on the shoulder of the paved road and not worry as much about getting flattened by some unruly (aka any and every) vehicle.

In any case, post-run I traveled with Lindsey, another DREAM volunteer, on the guagua (public transportation...usually a van which may or may not have a functioning door and may or may not have additional passengers hanging out the door. But it lets you out wherever you want so is thus FAR better than any bus system in the US) to the neighboring town, Sosua. We were headed to the town of Nazaret to volunteer at an elementary school's library. Nazaret is way up in the hills just inland from Sosua. Lindsey had been volunteering there every Saturday morning for the past few weeks, managing a Saturday reading program for kids in grades 2-4.

Once in Sosua the fun started...we hopped on motos (helmets on of course!) and headed up a steep and winding dirt road up to Nazaret. Now I had thus far been pretty terrified of motos and will frequently spend the entire duration of my ride considering what the physical consequences to my body would be if I flew off the moto at any given point. Usually my mind calculates somewhere between broken limbs and eminent death...however my helmet IS really legitimate (don't worry Mom) so maybe I'm exaggerating. All fears aside, this trip was amazing. We went really slow, and kept winding up and up this dirt road through what were now pretty rural villages in hills and valleys. Lots of farmland, cows, and amazing views. It was so quiet - a really nice change from the traffic and hustle of Cabarete.

We arrived at the school after about a 15 minute climb to the top of the hill on which the school sits. The school is technically private and was founded by missionaries, but is entirely run by Dominicans, and has an entirely Dominican teaching staff as well. It was truly a beautiful setting, and the school and classrooms were bright and cheery (in stark contrast to the Dominican public school classrooms I have seen at the school in my neighborhood, which are largely dark, dim, sparsely decorated, and fairly depressing).

Shortly after we arrived, there were kids lined up outside waiting to get into the library...kids lined up to read! How cool! They were all various degrees of Completely Adorable, and were very well behaved as well. We worked with 3 different sections in three different class blocks, helping them read when necessary and also helping them create cute name tags.

It was really great to have the opportunity to see yet another school/school model here, and also the community - I certainly never would have ended up at the top of that dirt road in the hills otherwise, and it was wonderful to experience a completely different setting/community than Cabarete. I hope to go back soon!

The rest of the weekend was pretty relaxing...got some great surfing in, and got a little too much sun (turns to tan, turns to tan)....pretty much par for the course here in Cabarete.

Also had a great week with the kids at DREAM. After devising a behavior incentive system involving earning coconuts on coconut trees, they were more or less angelic. A little less so when a younger student in the morning session on Thursday picked up a giant dead spider he found somewhere in the center and ran around shoving it in the faces of all of us teachers. Sent my arachnophobia level (already fairly high) pretty much through the roof....needless to say there was a major coconut reduction for his class.

After entertaining the idea of heading to Santo Domingo this weekend to see Aventura (the biggest band in the country it seems) live, tickets proved hard to come by at this late stage in the game and I will be hanging in Cabarete after all. So far surfing, as well as traveling east to the town of Nagua to watch the Cabarete futbol team play a game on Sunday are on the agenda...

More soon!

Hasta pronto...
Laura

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

La fin de semana...

My apologies for the delay with this one! I will of course blame it on my internet connection (which has actually been perfect this past week...teehee) I just HAD to report back on my insanely fun weekend with the Siegle clan here - this would be the weekend before last..oh man I'm way behind with my blogging! In any case, this involved my dad, Aunt Jerri - who is living in nearby Sosua -, Aunt Janet and Uncle Paul...that's all the Siegle siblings, plus everyone's favorite daughter/niece reunited for some glorious antics in the DR.

After hearing much hype, we decided to travel to the 27 Waterfalls on Saturday, near the town of Imbert, which is somewhere near Puerta Plata, though we seemed to get off course a few times...though did see some of downtown Puerta Plata, which is definitely a legit city. Complete with a two-lane highway, which I certainly hadn't laid eyes on since leaving the states. Not that a two-lane highway prompts drivers here to be any less reckless or observant of basic traffic laws, but....annnnnnnnnyway...

After a delish Dominican lunch at a little comedor in downtown Imbert (small, typical Dominican town) we finally made it to the 27 Waterfalls...this means we followed a dirt road off the side of the highway down to a visitor center where we were told virtually nothing about what we were about to do, beyond seeing some waterfalls, perhaps doing some hiking, and perhaps swimming in some natural spring pools - nothing in regards to what the physical requirements might be, what to expect, etc...The brochure was shockingly vague, and pretty much all the information we got was that there were three options - to see waterfalls 1-7, 1-12, or 1-27...except since it was early afternoon we didn't have time to do all 27 so it was either option a or b...My dad and I, being the loco ones, enthusiastically opted for 12, the others set to do 1-7.

We were fitted with helmets and life jackets, and set off on a flat path through some farmland, and across a few shallow streams; at this point the helmets and life jackets of course seeming far too conservative.

About 10 minutes into our walk, we arrived at the first waterfall, which ended in a beautiful pool - our guide told us to go ahead and jump in, and then we were to swim through the pool and beyond that through a cavern-like channel into which the waterfall fed...at this point we realized that we would not be hiking alongside the waterfalls, but would be essentially rock climbing UP the waterfalls (with what was probably hundreds of gallons of water shooting at our bodies) with the help of our guides who would help to hoist us up the rock faces (no ropes, no security aside from the arm strength of our guides). This was pretty much completely unsafe for anyone with shoulder issues, or really any medical issues at all, and thus a few members of our group opted to stay safe near the first waterfalls and meet my dad and I on our way back from being crazy people.

On to waterfall 12 we went...this included hoisting ourselves up a fairly large rock face with the help of a rope and our own arm strength alone...again, no security measure if we were to fall! We kept swimming through natural pools and caverns, walking on paths, through streams, and climbing up the falls until we reached number 12 - then the real fun began. On the way down we would be sliding down the natural waterslides formed by the waterfalls, and occasionally jumping off fairly high ledges (i.e. certainly the highest thing I have ever jumped off...probably 25-30 feet? It felt like about 100, but I'm just trying to be realistic).

In any case, our guide basically just led us to the edge of a ledge as if it was nothing and instructed us to just jump off of it by pretty much walking off the side of it into the natural pool of water 30 feet below. Having no time to be scared, there I went....actually super fun, aside from the insane amount of water up my nose (this was following the previous day's kayaking trip with DREAM volunteers, during which I decided to attempt a back flip off of a trapeze rope swing into a river...needless to say, I landed on my face and got ALOT of water in my sinuses).

In any case, we made it out alive and it was probably the most fun/crazy experience of my life thus far. Also falls under the category (along with the drain-clearing chemical I purchased last week at the local supermarket, which actually produces smoke upon contact with water) of things that are totally ok in the DR and would never be legal in the U.S. Gotta love 'em!

The weekend's next big event was the following day, Sunday, when we all went to Playa Grande, which is about an hour from Cabarete. I think this was the most beautiful beach I have ever seen! I hate to say it, but this is saying a lot after living in Hawaii for 8 months...

In any case, after chomping on the most delicious almonds ever (harvested off the road and then roasted and sold at road-side stands) we headed back from Playa Grande to go to Blue Moon for dinner. This is a well known but completely obscurely-located Indian restaurant in nearby Los Brazos. After heading a few miles away from the coast and up towards the hills/mountains, we arrived at the restaurant's roller coaster-like dirt road. I wasn't sure my aunt's sweet sweet car was going to make it but with my dad flooring it somehow we made it. Just in time to see one of the most beautiful sunsets of my life. The restaurant is situated on top of a hill in a quiet rural area surrounded by hills and valleys, farms, etc. and the sun sets just behind it over the mountains.

The dining experience was definitely the most unique of my life - the restaurant only does one dinner each night, and only when they have at least 8 people. This is because everyone sits in a circular hut on cushions, and eats a meal together - off of banana leaves and with their bare hands. I obviously had a field day with this and had food all over myself and my hands...but it was so delicious that I didn't care. They made their own chutneys, raita, etc....the whole meal was a delicious Indian-with-Caribbean-flare affair, and the setting was so peaceful, quiet, and gorgeous. I can't wait to go back!

It seemed a perfect and relaxing end to a crazy few days. Thanks to the Siegle siblings for the good times!

More to come soon...

-L

Monday, January 25, 2010

The rain stops! Kids come to school! The family comes!

My apologies for the delay in getting this post out! I am getting accustomed to sometimes having internet, and sometimes not (as in the last 4 days or so), sometimes having electricity, and sometimes not, sometimes having a luke warm shower, and sometimes a cold one, etc....so I will definitely be blaming my inconsistent internet connection for sometimes not keeping up my blog, whether it's true or I'm just being lazy. You'll never know!

In any case, the last two weeks have been super busy, work- and fun- filled. I guess I'll start with a bit about our fundraiser's for Haiti because I think I left you all on the edges of your seat (it's ok to admit) as I described our plans in my last post...

So last Thursday at the DREAM center where I teach we held a pulga (flea market) where we sold donated clothes (both new and used...we got a ton of brand new stuff donated from a local surf shop so sooommmeeeone did a bit of discount shopping and didn't feel the least bit bad about it - all for Haiti!!) as well as some household items, etc...lots of people from the neighborhood came, and it was great...we made between $400-$500 to send directly to the Red Cross, which was pretty amazing seeing as we were selling all items for the equivalent of a few dollars.

So then that night was the big art show. Everything seemed to come together at the last minute, which was amazing - Cabarete is such a small community - it's amazing what you can pull together in a matter of days with the right connections - meaning DREAM's in general, not mine. We received food donations from some of the best local restaurants (including the best carrot cake that's ever touched my tongue), live music, jewelry from local shops, well renowned local painters with their work...it was so great! Local businesses also helped us to promote, which was helpful as well; the crowd was a great mix of tourists and local people too, and we made close to $1,000 which was really unbelievable. We had student drawings for sale, student-painted vases, our signature 'Hispanola Unida' handmade/student decorated shoulder bags, amazing handmade postcards that another volunteer made, some seriously great necklaces made by other teachers and friends, some coconut shell candle lamps, handmade candles...the list goes on.

It was pretty touching and emotional to see the whole thing unfold, having had less than a week to plan it, create the student-made pieces, get other artists on board, etc...Everyone who came was so generous and willing to donate, was enthusiastic about the work, wanted to learn more about DREAM, and wanted to do anything they could to support Haiti.

While the entire earthquake aftermath situation is completely devastating for our neighbors in Haiti, as with many similar situations, it also brings the best out of many people, and unity tends to surface in a big way. It's moving to observe this in a way that I think is probably extroardinarily powerful due to our proximity to the disaster here in the D.R.

Now for some not so good news... I was in the midst of taking some adorable photos of my students making pieces of art for the art show, so that I could share them with you all, when I turned my back for a second in the midst of helping an adorable child add his hand print to one of our 'Hispaniola Unida' shoulder bags (the hand prints were added in the center of a circular stencil we created with the words 'Hispaniola Unida')....when I turned around I watched in slow motion as another student knocked my brand new digital camera off the table and onto the concrete floor. Needless to say.....the photos seem to be inaccessible and I am now camera-less. Nontheless, I'm also keeping it in perspective and reminding myself that I am still alive and that my entire house hasn't collapsed...though I am also hoping that Canon will pull through with a great warranty policy that includes protection against enthusiastic and well-meaning but rambunctious 8-year old artists. Will report back...

In other news, it finally stopped raining! This was great because 1) the schools opened again, and kids started going to both their public school session and DREAM's - why they don't tend to go when it rains/looks like it will rain is beyond me, and 2) now I'm not so pale and I don't have mud from my street splattered on everything I own. Yay! Rainy season appears to be a thing of the past.

Post-art show, I also had a wild weekend with the Siegle family siblings (meaning my father and his sisters...) I think that requires a separate post, so I'll get going on that...

until soon, un beso!

Laura

Saturday, January 16, 2010

Weeks one and two come to a close...

While it is still raining in Cabarete, two weeks after my arrival and every day in between - ok, except for two days of glory - I have finally become able to access the internet in my apartment which I imagine is about as good as heroin. Despite the rain (and my shockingly pale skin), I am happy. The DREAM Project is doing some really important work, and so far the organization is everything I was hoping it would be.

I'm teaching in their afterschool program (so... yah. kids here only go to public school for 3 hours a day. This is because there are not enough schools or classrooms for them to attend for a full day. This means they either go to school during the morning, afternoon, or evening session. Before high school, most kids go either in the morning or afternoon, and those enrolled in DREAM's program will come to the DREAM Center during the session they are not in public school. This still doesn't really give them a full day of school, but about 5 hours instead of 3...) Literacy is by and large shockingly low, and it's common in this community for people to not have a high school education. This is partly because they would have to commute (as there are only high schools in neighboring towns) and also because you cannot enter high school in the D.R. without a birth certificate. This is a whole other bizarre complication as many children are born at home and do not have proper papers....also because birth certificates can then only be obtained by travelling to Puerta Plata, a small city about an hour away. In any case...the kids are really enthusiastic so far. I'm teaching Adult ESL (figuring that one out as I go along!) and computers/english/writing to kids between the ages of about 10-17. I also have one art class with younger kids which I'm super excited about.

El Callejon de la Loma, the neighborhood where I live and work at the DREAM Center, is starting to feel like home. It's largely very poor, though completely residential and everyone has been insanely friendly so far. It's also, sadly, very flooded right now because it's been raining for the last 2 weeks straight - one street behind my apartment building is inaccessible without wading through what looks to be a river of about 8 inches of water...

At the end of the main road, El Callejon, there is "La Loma" or 'the hills' - it's apparently rural and beautiful, and many people live there; this area has been populated for much longer than the Callejon (as the Callejon is basically a swamp area, only settled in the last 20 years or so with the rise of tourism in Cabarete). La Loma also apparently involves caves, and one you can swim in. I'm excited to explore, but now it's too wet/flooded to go, so hopefully things will dry up soon...Will report back!

Otherwise the neighborhood is full of people, stray dogs, donkeys, horses (all wandering around, to some extent...as these happen to be my favorite animals, it feels like my hood is a good fit...though it's difficult to see animals struggling, homeless, and underfed. But here it's also easy to understand that humans in that predicament are prioritized, and should be).

Cabarete is a great mix of people; the beach side of the town is totally touristy and developed (not to mention a serious party scene...every night past about 11 is basically a music video for Now That's What I Call Hits, with a lot of bass...) where as the other side of the main road from the beach, where I live in El Callejon, is completely different and impoverished. It's a somewhat shocking contrast, but one I am fascinated by so far.

Of course the other event that has put a damper on things is the earthquake in Haiti; while we felt a mild quake here (or rather, those of us who weren't riding on the back of a motorbike at the time were..eh hem) there is no physical damage. Though many people in the community have family members in Haiti that they are unable to contact, and cannot locate - it's all terrifying and devastating. The Haitian border is officially closed and all phone lines are down across the country. It's so painful to see this happen to a nation already facing so much adversity, but I hope in the coming months to see many parts of the world united in the relief effort...

DREAM is planning some fundraising events this week to support the relief effort, which I'm super excited about; on Thursday we'll hold a 'pulga' or flea market, for the local community, as well as an art show of student as well as local professional artists' works, with all proceeds to be donated to the Red Cross, who is at this point determined to be the most effective organization on the ground, able to use funds immediately. The art show will be great - I'll be working with the kids on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday to create decorated bags we will make out of t-shirts, painted vases, and painted leaves. We're all really excited about the t-shirt bags, which I think will be huge sellers....photos to come!!!

Hasta pronto....

Laura